Some promises are meant to be broken, especially those we make to ourselves. After hiking Gunung Besar Hantu and vowing, with aching legs, nausea, and a spooky experience, never to return, it took only a month for me to find myself once again at the entrance of Taman Alam Liar Kenoboi. This time, though, I wasn’t heading for the daunting 1,462-meter peak of Gunung Besar Hantu, but to a hidden, gargantuan rock waterfall deep in the jungle—Lata Dinding. #gununghantubesar
Although this was my second time to Kenoboi, the journey felt just as winding, misty, and mysterious. The morning mist drifted in waves like white smoke curling in the darkness and the drive was punctuated by a flying owl, the eerie howls of unseen dogs, and strange noises from wild animals. The drive, already filled with anticipation, had its own air of excitement.
Taman Negeri Kenobi
Starting point: Taman Hutan Liar Kenoboi
Hike Length: 19km
Stream Crossing: 3 small stream
End Hike: Backtrack
Track condition: muddy at parts
Hike Difficulty: 3/5
Elevation Gain : 1200m
Facilities: Public Toilet ( constantly with no water), Camping Site, Rest House, parking area, Chalet, Dorm. Contact the forestry for bookings
PERMIT: 5rm permit at the park (for now, guides are not mandatory, on line permit is available)
Note: Right at the roundabout towards Kampung Esok, if you detour to Kampung Chennah, you can get breakfast as early as 6am. Just 50m away from the roundabout.
Break it into 4 parts,
Part 1- Never ending log road (5km)
Part 2- Kem Sungai Kering (cross river)
Part 3- Never ending road 2 (4.5km)
Scenery Rewards: gargantuan rock waterfall with lost world vibes
What to bring
1. Basic first aid stuff such as disinfectant, ankle guard in case you sprain your ankle, band-aid.
2. Walking stick
3. Raincoat and Poncho,
4. Head-Torch, if you start before 7am
5. At least 2l of water, pack lunch, snack!
6. Change of clothes
7. Good pair of hiking shoes is absolutely necessary
8. LEECH repellent
9. Cap
PART 1 - Never ending log road to Lata Dinding Waterfall
From the entrance to the Y-junction, it’s about a 20-minute trek. The straight path leads to Lata Kijang, while the right fork takes you to Gunung Hantu Besar and Lata Dinding. Our plan was to visit the farther waterfall first, letting the weather dictate whether we’d continue to Lata Kijang afterward.
The initial stretch from the Y-junction starts on a semi-paved road, perhaps an abandon logging trail, before transitioning to red earth and mud. You'll pass a bamboo hut, where the 'orang asli' gather their fruits or fish harvest before passing it to the middleman.
At the 2nd fork stay left toward Sungai Kering.
As this area is home to many 'orang asli' some of the trails may lead to their settlements.
The trail consists of long, steep ascents, followed by brief flat sections, only to climb steeply again—repeating this pattern more than ten times until reaching Sungai Kering, around 5 km from the entrance. This section of the trail is semi-shaded but can get hot on the return journey, so it’s wise to ration water for the way back.
This part of the trail, still vivid in my memory, felt muddier than before, with more fallen trees and increased soil erosion—likely the result of the relentless thunderstorms over the past month. One constant, however, was the trail's difficulty. If anything, it felt tougher to climb, made more slippery and treacherous by the rainfall from the previous night.
PART 2: Sungai Kering
If you haven't had breakfast, Sungai Kering checkpoint is a good place to refuel before continuing.
Although the next 5km is less steep than the first section, it is undulating terrain and more raw, without overgrown thickets and bushes at some parts.
PART 3: Never ending road 2
This section of the trail, more shaded than the earlier part, was scattered with various fallen fruits. On our way in, we encountered some Orang Asli traveling out on motorbikes, carrying jungle durians to sell to local landowners.
After crossing the stream, we reached a fork in the trail and were tempted to go straight, but we needed to turn left. Luckily, large branches blocked the straight path, and our helpful friend with the GPX reader guided us in the right direction. There were no signs at this point, making it a bit confusing. Parts of the trail were quite exposed, with minimal tree cover. I would advise to download the GPX before embarking on this hike.
We continued trekking along a meandering, muddy trail for about 2 km before reaching another fork. This time, we took the right, which was noticeably steeper than the other option. A little further on, the trail re-entered the jungle. The ground was littered with an array of fruits in all shapes and colors, though we weren’t sure which were edible. Then I stumbled upon something remarkable—a life-changing discovery: tropical chestnuts! I had no idea chestnuts could thrive in the tropics, yet here they were, growing wild in the forest. ( on the return we picked some and roasted them, absolutely delicious)
The fruit-littered trail had us so captivated that we didn’t realise we had already covered around 9 km of the hike. Although we heard the gurgling stream at ever bend, but no sign of the waterfall.
Soon, we reached a clearing and passed a house made of bamboo and umbrella palm leaves. There were evidence of this palm tree at every junction, but sadly I did not spot them. In Batangsi, there is a Johannesteijsmannia magnifica forest which is thriving in it's natural habitat and truly and Alice in Wonderland moment when you stumble into a forest with diamond shaped leaves spanning about 2m and 3m long.
The palms are ideal for thatching roofs or walls as seen in orang asli homes and they typically last for a few years. These palms are also listed as 'endangered' and 'threatened' species in Malaysia. #umbrellapalm
A barking dog stood guard, ensuring we didn’t stray too close to their cozy home. As the trail bent around, it revealed the rolling mountains beyond, framed by overgrown ferns. Then, we heard the unmistakable splashing of water, and moments later, the gargantuan waterfall finally came into view.
We quickly refueled and took the obligatory photos, all while dodging the many hungry leeches lurking around. Our original plan to head to Lata Kijang was foiled by the pouring rain. It seems it’s my fate to return here for a third time.
LATA KIJANG & Jeram Berungut
.....and return to Kenoboi, we did for the 3rd time. Instead of just witnessing the highest waterfall in Negeri Sembilan Lata Kijang 80m, we decided to add Jeram Berungut, Nagging Canyon to the hike. (dry and wet trail)
Jeram Berungut is located at another direction from the main campsite so we had to back track from Lata Kijang to the other direction.
But first, the journey to Lata Kijang Falls was quite the adventure. We hadn’t anticipated the trail would be so steep, but when we finally reached the falls, we were utterly astonished by their height. There was something in the air—while it might not have been love, some say it's the next best thing, negative ions.
Starting point: Taman Hutan Liar Kenoboi
Hike Length: 8km ( return)
End Hike: Backtrack
Track condition: old logging road, destroyed tarmac
Hike Difficulty: 2/5
Elevation Gain : 500m
FUNFACT: Gunung Besar Hantu and Lata Kijang happens to be the highest mountain and waterfall in Negeri Sembilan
The waterfall is tucked between two hills, accessed by a steep ascent that leads to a plateau with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. At the cusp of the plateau, you’ll begin a moderate descent, which quickly becomes steeper. As you approach, the sound of the roaring, gushing water fills the air, accompanied by the refreshing presence of negative ions all around you.
According to Malay folklore, at the third tier of the waterfall, there is a rock engraved with the paw print of the "kijang" deer, alongside a massive stone that is said to have been transformed by the mythical creature "Sang Kelembai" as it fled from a leopard. Another captivating legend describes the Ghost Princes that bathes in the pool and appears particularly during full moon. Only the fortunate may catch a fleeting glimpse of this alluring spirit caught between worlds!
As we descended to the base of the waterfall, we didn’t catch a glimpse of the ghost princess with her waist-length hair, nor did we spot the paw print of the deer. Instead, we were enveloped by the refreshing embrace of negative ions that filled the air, washing away any eerie vibes. These ions are believed to trigger biochemical reactions that elevate serotonin levels, leaving us with a sense of calm and rejuvenation. #latakijang
This waterfall isn’t ideal for swimming, as there aren’t many large pools. After a quick refuel and some obligatory photos, we set off for our next adventure at the canyon.
JERAM BERUNGUT
This canyon has often been compared to the River Anduin from The Lord of the Rings. Once a granite hill, it has been carved over centuries by the force of water of one of the tributaries of Sungai Kenaboi, resulting in a deep canyon. Berungut in Malay means nagging, perhaps the name refers to the gushing water that echos in the canyon.
The shapes and textures of the canyon walls create an enchanting landscape, making it a truly magical place to visit. #jeramberungut
Starting point: Taman Hutan Liar Kenoboi
Hike Length: 5km ( return)
End Hike: Backtrack, (tubing on river on return)
Track condition: part dry, part on stream
Hike Difficulty: 2/5
Elevation Gain : 150m
The canyon, situated at a narrow stretch of the river, is infamous for its powerful currents and rapid fluctuations in water levels. Due to these treacherous conditions, it's highly advisable to venture into this area with a trained guide. We appointed Knaboi Adventure Guides for this excursion that included the life-vest rentals. (they organize all sorts of adventure sports around the area)
Safety is paramount, and wearing a life vest is essential.
On the return journey, we floated downstream (tubing), until we reached the dry trail. As we drifted along, we navigated gentle rapids, the sun’s rays filtering through the gaps in the canopy above, offering a warm contrast to the icy cold stream water. The experience was both serene and exhilarating as we clumsily avoided larger boulders.
It was a perfect way to unwind after the adventure, combining relaxation with exhilarating rush! This tubing can be addictive!
Relfections
The waterfall hike is nearly a half marathon, covering 19 km with a total elevation gain of 1,180 meters. Although we had planned to visit Lata Kijang when we reached the Y junction, most of us were relieved we didn’t—rain saved the day!
It’s never advisable to hike in the rain, especially near waterfalls, as a sudden surge of water can flood pools within seconds, known as kepala air.
Instead, we made our way to the exit, eagerly anticipating our lunch plans.
Time reference Checkpoints
Lata Dinding Lata Kijang
0745 - Start Hike 0745- Start Hike
0930- Sungai Kering 0815- Y juntion
1100- Lata Dinding 0900- Lata Kijang
1330- Sungai Kering 1000- Return to camo
1410- Exit 1100- Exit
Total 7 hours Total 4 hours
This spray here works wonders! My friend Jerry used up half the bottle spraying these creepies at this hike! Don't forget to bring it along the next time! (click here to get)
Date visited: 12th October 2024
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