Aug 187 min read

Gunung Besar Hantu on a Hungry Ghost Day (Great Ghost Mountain 1462m)

Updated: Oct 15

Hiking Gunung Besar Hantu 1462m on Hungry Ghost day will promote you from hiker, to hiker-cum-ghostbuster. Located at the final stretch of the Titiwangsa mountain range that boarders Pahang and Negeri Sembilan, this peak is the highest in Negeri Sembilan.

The Jelebu area is eternally shrouded in thick mist and spooky tales. Encounters in this once dense teak jungle range from aliens to stories of parallel universes and genies. During the British occupancy, it was a favorite hunting ground for deer and is crisscrossed by the tributaries and waterfalls of the Kenobi River.

If you look hard enough, you might catch a glimpse of the divinely beautiful lady with waist-length hair bathing in the pools of Lata Kijang. According to local folklore, on the third level of Lata Kijang Falls, there are deer footprints engraved on a rock, said to be from a deer that was chased by a leopard. Beside this rock, a larger boulder is believed to be the leopard itself, turned to stone.

The journey from KL to Taman Negeri Kenoboi will take around 2 hours. It is a windy and undulating road. The morning mist drifted in waves, retreating just a quickly but surely disturbing the visibility of the dark road.

As we journeyed toward the forest reserve park, we passed through a village with the unusual name of 'Tomorrow Village' (Kampung Besok). The name struck us as eerie, and we couldn't shake the feeling that there was something mysterious about it. Later, we learned that the village had a peculiar reputation—guests who planned to leave often found themselves staying an extra day, as if time itself was persuaded to linger just a little longer in that world! #gunungbesarhantu

Taman Negeri Kenoboi

Starting point: Taman Hutan Liar Kenoboi

Hike Length: 20km

Stream Crossing: 1 small stream

End Hike: Backtrack

Track condition: muddy at parts

Hike Difficulty: of the 10km up hill, 1km is steep inclination!

Facilities: Public Toilet ( constantly with no water), Camping Site, Rest House, parking area, Chalet, Dorm. Contact the forestry for bookings

PERMIT: 5rm permit at the park (for now, guides are not mandatory, on line permit is available)

Break it into 4 parts,

Part 1- Never ending log road
Part 2- Kem Sungai Kering
Part 3- Kem Orkid ( gruelling 1km though steep and narrow sloop and narrow path)
Part 4- Junction Gunung Besar/Kecil to Peak

Scenery Rewards: rolling mountain scenary

gunung hantu besar — Start hike appx 8am toward the old log road

What to bring

1. Basic first aid stuff such as disinfectant, ankle guard in case you sprain your ankle, band-aid.

2. Walking stick

3. Raincoat and Poncho,

4. Head-Torch, if you start before 7am

5. At least 2l of water, pack lunch, snack!

6. Change of clothes

7. Good pair of hiking shoes is absolutely necessary

8. Gloves optional

9. Cap (the 5km return leg can extremely hot)

PART 1 - Never ending log road

The first part of the journey from the starting point to Sungai Kering spans around 5 kilometers. This initial stretch involves a steady ascent through overgrown groves and bamboo thickets that were once a logging road.

While the scenery may seem unremarkable, it's crucial to pay attention to two key junctions if you're aiming to climb Gunung Besar Hantu. At the first junction, take a right, and at the second junction, make sure to take a left. As our group was rather big, everyone was at their own pace. I lagged behind as the terrain became more challenging, while the other hikers from my group progressed at a blistering pace. Finally, my turn has come to be the sweeper.

If you've hiked Gunung Nuang before, you'll find the distance here quite similar. However, unlike Gunung Nuang, this trail is mostly unshaded, which can make the return journey in the afternoon extremely hot! It took us around 1 hour 15 minutes to clear the first part.

the orang asli fish nets that they place at the rivers where they swim in but not out

PART 2: Sungai Kering to Kem Orchid

From the Sungai Kering checkpoint, we transitioned into the shaded part of the jungle trail, leaving the old logging road behind. Shortly after entering the wooded area, we reached a calm river, where ropes were in place to help with the crossing. The river featured a small cascade with serene pools.

Following the stream crossing, we hiked in gradual ascend on the 2.5-kilometer trail to Camp Orchid. This segment typically lasted between 45 minutes to 1 hour. Along the way, the orchestra of jungle begins to unfold with gibbons, wild birds and bugs calls, accented with occasional rattles of branches and the sigh of wind winding its way through the jungle. This is always the reason I hike.

PART 3: Camp Orkid to Juntion Besar/Kecil

The trail eventually led us to an open clearing filled with beautiful wild orchid thickets—a perfect spot for a picnic. However, the moment was somewhat spoiled by the many sweat bees that were attracted to our perspiration-soaked clothes.

At Camp Orchid, we quickly refuelled knowing that a challenging climb up to Junction Kecil/Besar awaited us.

From the Camp Orchid clearing, we reenter the jungle path. To the right is the last water point—an important stop if you're running low on water. To reach the peak, take the left path. The first part of the trail is challenging, webbed with roots and steep, sloping gradients. As you continue on the trail, we encounter the first gargantuan tree. The sheer diameter of its trunk reveals that it might be one of the original inhabitants of this secondary forest, somehow spared the chain saws of the loggers!

After passing this massive tree, the air becomes noticeably cooler. A momentary breeze sweeps through, offering a welcome break from the relentless climb, allowing us to catch our breaths and enjoy the refreshing change. As we head up, the trail narrows and gradient gets steeper and bigger. We had to scramble and hoist ourselves up at some parts.

The trail is challenging to traverse, with gnarled and twisted roots snaking across the path. These roots, worn smooth by years of weather and foot traffic, create a slick surface that makes it easy to lose your footing. The uneven terrain forces you to carefully pick your way through, making each step a cautious footing decision!

The surrounding trees appears more dwarfed as we progressed. The rocks and boulders covered with a lush green layer of moss. As the trail is narrow here, we had to give way to hikers who where heading down from their pre-dawn hike. Some started as early as 2.30am. On the return leg, this area was especially congested. Some huge slopes had little support on very slick surfaces. At some parts, we just held on the the earth for leverage.

The trail narrows to a point forcing a single-file crossing.

Part 4: Juntion Besar/kecil to Peak

After around 1 hour and half, we arrive at the junction of Gunung Hantu Kecil and Besar. The trail to Gunung Hantu Kecil is still closed due to the broken bridge (it is clearly barricaded). We took the right trail, on the ridge of labyrinth of the cloud forest! #mossyforest

This part felt longer than I expected. The trail through the exposed web of roots, epiphytes, orhids and fern felt like eternity. Navigating the cloud forest trail requires careful footing, as you need to place your foot precisely in the gaps between the tree roots and lift it out carefully to avoid tripping. It was hard to be fast here.

Along the way to the peak, the trail was lined with overhangs draped in lichen, and mossy ferns.

I think i knocked my head more than once on the low hanging branches!

It took a good 30minutes to clear this part! Somehow, I broke away from the rest of my group and was trekking alone in the labyrinth of moss. I did think of giving up at some point, on the ridge. But somehow when I heard the relaxed giggles, I knew the peak wasn't far.

The peak was a small clearing with a broken trig station that looks out to rolling mountains and beyond. It wasn't spectacular or breathtaking.

The space at the mountain peak was incredibly limited, barely large enough to accommodate everyone. The peak was packed with hikers, each in a cozy spot, with just enough room for a few people to sit together.

We regrouped for a quick lunch, took our mandatory group photos and hurried down in anticipation of the rain.

RETURN

We left the peak around 1315. The human traffic started piling up as everyone began to descend especially at the steep slope section. Some hikers were slower than others while some who hurried tripped over gnarled roots. It is best to take it at your own stride and not be pressured by trail runners who skipped their way down the slopes.

The downhill journey drained our energy, especially during the final stretch when the intense heat and lack of tree cover made every step feel exhausting. It was crucial to conserve water for the return, as the trail, though descending, was still taxing. Small pebbles constantly found their way into my shoes, irritating my toes and adding to the discomfort. By the time we finally reached the car park, our legs were so weary that we could barely feel them! #tamannegerikenaboi

Just when we thought everyone had made it out safely, we realized one of us was missing. We waited at the exit for over an hour, growing increasingly anxious, as it was out of character for him to be this slow. Unsettling thoughts of folklore from the Hungry Ghost Festival began to play in my mind, deepening the uneasiness.

As most of the hikers from our group left the park, we were fortunate to have two strong hikers still with us. They were willing to jog back into the trail, determined to find our friend and bring him safely out. And that they did, as if they were God-sent.

Later, our friend shared a spooky tale from his time by the stream at Sungai Kering. Perhaps it was exhaustion, the heat, or the allure of the waterfall, but he spoke of an imaginary lady bathing in the pools, whose presence felt almost too tempting to leave. Whether it was a product of his tired mind or something more mysterious, it added an eerie twist to the Big Ghost mountain on a hungry ghost day!

We made our way to Titi Hakka Village afterward, where we ate like hungry ghosts, feeling both thankful and grateful that we all made it out safe and sound. We couldn’t help but reflect on the day’s events with a mix of laughter and lingering unease.

I don't think I would ever hike Gunung Besar Hantu again!