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Ba Den peak 986m rooftop of South Vietnam with a dark history

Writer's picture: GypsytrackerGypsytracker

Updated: Jan 15


Ba Den Mountain, also known as the Black Virgin Mountain, is the highest peak in Southern Vietnam, earning it the title of the "rooftop of the Mekong Delta region." Located approximately 100 kilometers northwest of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) in Tay Ninh province, the mountain, an extinct volcano rises dramatically from the surrounding flatlands. #baden


During the war era, Ba Den Mountain's strategic location made it a fiercely contested site. It was occupied at various times by the Japanese, Viet Minh, French, Viet Cong, and Americans. The area around Tay Ninh also witnessed intense battles, as the Ho Chi Minh Trail ends a few kilometers west across the Cambodian border. #vietnamwar


Nearby, the Cu Chi Tunnels—a vast subterranean network created by the Viet Cong—further highlight the region's historical significance. These tunnels, some of which connects to Saigon, were instrumental in the Viet Cong's guerrilla warfare tactics. #chuchitunnels


buddist temples above the mountain in south vietnam
Once an intense battle site, today Ba Den is dotted with serene temples

Today, Ba Den Mountain is not only a site of historical importance but also a revered destination for Buddhist pilgrims. Its temples and shrines draw devotees, especially during the Lunar New Year, TET , Vesak festival and during the 15th or 1st of the lunar month.


Note: although many blogs advise to visit Ba Den mountain with Chu Chi tunnels but can be impractical as the traffic from Saigon to Ba Den is too time consuming. Despite leaving at 630am from Saigon, we only arrived at 930am after a good bowl of Banh Canh noodles. (famous noodles around the region) I would advise to leave as early as you may if you are travelling from Saigon.




Starting point: gondola to halfway Hang pagoda ( view prices for gondola)

Hike Duration: appx. 4 hours

Total distance: 5km

The return journey cost 250,000dong ($10USD)

Hike Difficulty: 3/5, difficult, total Total EG was around 650m

Toilet facilities: Yes

Entrance fee: 10,000 dong (0.40 USD)


Main check points


PART 1

  • midway cable car station (walk down the flight of stairs)

  • end of rock stairs

  • drink stores

  • TURTLE ROCK (insta worthy shot)


PART 2

  • cave temple

  • steel stairs

  • big boulder

  • bamboo thickets


What to bring


1. Hiking stick, optional

2. At least 1 liter of water

3. Gloves

3. Good pair of hiking shoes

4. Cap (the ridge is unshaded and many unshaded parts throughout the hike)


The are many trails to the peak, but in order to save time and return to Saigon before dark, we decided to buy some time and took the gondola to halfway point. From halfway point, the hike to the peak takes 2.5km with 650m elevation gain, scrambling over huge boulders in intense heat and some unshaded parts.


Part 1


By the time we arrived at the mid-station, it was 10:30 AM. The sun was blazing, and the heat was oppressive. There was no signs, and few people spoke English. Thankfully, with the help of Google Translate, we managed to ask for directions from some locals after spending 15 precious minutes searching.


If you take the cable car, head down the flight of steps to the flat area where the drinks and food stalls are located. From there, look for a flight of stairs with yellow railings and start your ascent. Along the way, you’ll pass a hammock area—continue climbing this staircase until you reach the end. This is where the climbing starts.



Walk down flight of stairs head to an flat area with this sign, and ascend the right stairs

The entire climb to Turtle Rock took around 50 minutes on a vast sea of boulders with large and uneven rocks. Some sections of the trail were unshaded, and the boulders radiated heat from the scorching sun, making the ascent particularly challenging.

turtle rock in south vietnam
This rock resembles a turtle head from a certain angle, there is also a man made turtle on the rock's edge

If you didn’t bring enough water, there’s a drink stall at the Turtle Rock area where you can refill and recharge. After taking a few mandatory photos on this basalt outcrop and surveying the surroundings, we discovered a soldier’s gravesite beneath the base of a boulder on the other-side. The area had an eerie atmosphere, amplified by the solitude of the deserted trail on a weekday.


Bring along cap, gloves, and loads of water! Tay Ninh is normally few degrees hotter than Saigon!

Adding to the unease, we frequently heard loud announcements over a microphone, though we couldn’t understand what was being said. It gave us an unsettling feeling, almost as if we were participants in a surreal version of Squid Game, unsure if the warnings were directed at us to stop heading toward the peak. The combination of the desolate trail, oppressive heat, and mysterious ambiance left us feeling a mix of trepidation and determination to complete the climb.


 

PART 2


The trail continues past a second drink stall, where you’ll find a cave temple on the left. This temple is well worth exploring, as its unique and unusual structure adds a spiritual dimension to the hike.

At the drink stall, we encountered a few other hikers who were refueling. Their presence reassured us that we were on the right path offering a welcome sense of camaraderie.


Cave temple on the left of drink store, the trail continues though the stall, upwards

Shortly after passing the drink stall, the trail presents two challenging climbs before transitioning into a more typical hiking path.


The first climb is particularly daunting—a massive 20-meter cliff boulder tilted at an 80-degree angle. Metal stairs have been embedded into the rock face to aid the ascent, along with a rope on the opposite side for additional support. You have to use both arms and legs and properly coordinate your movements. This will be twice as difficult on the descend. Just do it one step at the time. Thankfully the ladder and the steel rods were firmly fasten and steady as we went over them.


The challenging bit of the hike

After the steel steps, you’ll encounter another massive boulder section that presents a challenging obstacle.

The trail then curves to the left, transitioning from the rocky boulder path to a dirt terrain, noticeably less steep and more manageable. As you continue, you’ll pass through bamboo thickets, and soon, the serene sound of Buddhist chanting from a loudspeaker, signaling that you’re nearing your destination.

rocky cliff in south vietnam
Not as steep as the steel steps but need to navigate space for footing

There wasn't a clear path to the temple, so we ended up jumping over the fence to gain entry. I believe the proper way to access it would be from the cable car station. The temple complex at the peak is vast, with numerous Buddha exhibits and food stalls.

We searched for the summit marker as proof of our achievement in scaling the 986-meter Ba Den peak, although we cheated halfway on the gondola.


The view from the lookout point was absolutely stunning and incredibly rewarding. Dau Tieng Lake, a vast expanse of blue, was clearly visible, standing out amidst miles and miles of lush green paddy fields.


RETURN


The return journey felt shorter than the ascent, though it wasn’t without its challenges. When we reached the boulder trail, as expected, it proved to be tough and arduous. Carefully navigating with tired legs, we slowly made our way down towards the midpoint.



hammock in the forest
It was so tempting to just relax under the tree after the hike

Take the elevator to the gondola station instead of climbing these steps! Our legs felt like jelly although it was only 5km

REFLECTIONS


This hike was both challenging and demanding, but it was absolutely rewarding and well worth waking up early for! However, the 6-hour car journey to Ba Den can feel like a drag. Early Sunday mornings might be the best option to avoid the traffic and make the trip more manageable. Don’t underestimate this hike—it's not your typical beginner's trail! The steep climbs, rocky paths, and boulder sections make it a tough but memorable adventure. Also take a moment to envision the war that took place on the mountain and the surrounding areas! And don't forget to try the Ban Canh noodles in Tay Ninh!

Date visited: 8th January 2025










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